seam slippage and seam strength

STRENGTH(Kg/cm about thread construction, twist, application, size and other parameters. Taking logarithm of both the sides with base 10 Any movements of warp & weft yarns away from a seam line under transverse stresses exacerbate the potential slippage. Seam slippage measures that.Seam strength depends upon stitch type, thread strength, stitches per inch, thread tension, seam type and seam efficiency of the material.Seam slippage depends upon the stitch rate, the weave structure of the fabric and the width of the seam allowance. Link:- http://cameron.econ.ucdavis.edu/excel/ex01access.html, CONTENT 8.1 4 3 STRENGTH(Kg/ y = 9E-08x3 + 3E-05x2 - 0.001x + 4.176 217.60 Along with testing seam strength, we can also calculate. Standards are very important in determining stitch types. 3.61 4 In this study, it is planned to explain the importance of the seam performance of garments. Working Areas - Apparel Merchandising, Fashion Retail Management, Garment Manufacturing || Seam slippage is the other phenomenon that may occur when seams are put under load. according to fitting normal curve by least Seam types are shown as an alphanumeric designation relating to the essential characteristics of fabric positioning and rows of stitching in a seam. Seam damages occur with thermal and mechanical damages. parameters of sewing thread and also different types of sewing threads and their 0.8567 Stitch and seam types which are not selected properly affect the sewing performance negatively. The exponential equation is Y0=aX1b TOTAL 5600.85 7.19 Table for relationship between thickness & Stitch type 601 is formed three threads; two needle threads and one looper thread. This type of seam will consist of two components and can be seen on very fine knitted garments where seams are required to be free from bulk. 6. Each stitched seam is identified by a numerical designation composed of five digits. Y0=1.76*1.06X2------------(2.2) 1384.5289 Characterisation of seam strength and seam slippage on cotton fabric 2 2307847.106 5.7200 Thermoplastic sewing threads, such as nylon and polyester, may be heated by the needle, melt and break. 8A + 16.78B = 5.7200 Its the 'line' that is formed by sewing together 1.00 354.38686 19.4 By solving this above two equation 0.8921 0.16 Y0 = 6E-06XGT3 - 0.0005XGT2 + 0.0259XGT+ 4.0837..(5.1) Sardar The exponential equation is y0=axgcb Seam strength. This seam type consists of a minimum of one component. 4.28 Seam allowances can range from 1/4inch (6.4mm) wide to as much as several inches. 2.5mm stitch length means each stitch will be 2.5mm long. Link: http://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/technology-industryarticle/practical-solutions-to-seam-puckering.asp This produces a neat edge on a seam exposed to view or to wear. TABLE FOR REALTIONSHIP BETWEEN GSM & SEAM 4.07 slippery making them more prone to slippage. 4.07 0.37 TABLE NO.-7 The measurement of seam slippage from the ASTM 1683-04 standard is well 439.41126 If you do not allow these cookies we will not know when you have visited our site, and will not be able to monitor its performance. 6.00 Seam slippage, which affects the sewn seam, can also be measured by subtracting the elongation of the fabric from that of the fabric with a seam in it. Seam performance of a garment depends on fabric structural and mechanical properties and strength, extensibility, security, durability, appearance and efficiency of the seams. Prepare the specimen as described in the standard. GSM*cover As per description the equations 5600.85 0.6721 GSM Vs. Seam slippage 2 AP-7-13 10.00 12.97 18.23 Some of the manufacturers select stitch classes, stitch densities and sewing threads without consideration to their influence on the fitting comfort of the garment. 4.00 These generally start with two or more pieces of material superimposed over each other and joined near an edge, with one or more rows of stitches. 0.202295 Many factors affect the level of seam strength. Seam performance of a garment also depends on structural and mechanical properties of the fabric and strength, extensibility, security, durability, appearance and efficiency of the seams. Seam Strength & Slippage | PDF - Scribd Stitch type 300 has 16 different subgroups. affected by moisture and perspiration. 5967.2535 2 quality and hampers the brand image of the manufacturer Y0=0.27*X210------------(2.3), Seam slippage strength The stitching results in decorative surface effects on the fabric e.g., pin tucks, application of braids, etc. Y=logY0 Eq. 5.47 TABLE NO.-10 3.95 23700.48A + 97826420.8B = 18480.9773 Y0 As per description the equations Seam slippage is nothing but the opening of seam. This according to fitting normal curve Eight seam types are specified in ISO 4916:1991 Textiles-Seam Types-Classification and Terminology standard, which are as follows: Class 1Superimposed seam, Class 2Lapped seam, Class 3Bound seams, Class 4Flat seams, Class 5Decorative/Ornamental stitching, Class 6Edge finishing/neatening, Class 7Attaching of separate items, Class 8Single ply construction, Class 7Attaching of separate items and Class 8Single ply construction [8]. (2.1) 1458.32334 Yarn slippage depends upon a low number of warp or filling yarn, two shallow seam allowance, too tight a fit and improper seam construction. A low. The clamping device of the machine shall be positioned with the central point of the two jaws in the line of the applied force, the front edges shall be at right angles to the line of applied force and their clamping faces shall be in the same plane. Y0=1.76*1.06X2------------(2.2), of exponential equation for cover factor(x2) vs. Seam 5.97 3.95 square method are 8.2 As per description the equations Y0=3.42*5.96X3------------(3.2) Appropriate sewing needle size according to the sewing thread ticket number and fabric weight should be selected to prevent mechanical seam damages. These are formed by folding a binding strip over the edge of the piles of material and joining both edges of the binding to the material with one or more rows of stitching. 21.55 Therefore it is essential to analyse the influence various seam slippage strength Seam type OS (ornamental seam) has eight different subgroups. ), chemical treatments of the fabric (softness, dyes, finishing, washing), sewing needle number, design and sewing machine settings [12]. They may be used by those companies to build a profile of your interests and show you relevant advertisings on other sites. 0.9004 Lots of studies were done about needle penetration force. -0.41 between (xgc& No. 7.7373 Thread type and size. 0.00 Correlation 217.60 64.30 Appendix 2 - General Principle & Standards (Detail Guidelines)Macy.pdf, An optometrist s guide to clinical ethics By Optom Sudhakar, 2nd July train_the_trainer_presentation.pptx-min-converted.pptx, RAHIM KHAN XGT 6.Result analysis The ornamental stitch is a series of stitches along a straight or curved line or following an ornamental design, on a single ply of material. The exponential equation is Y0=abX1 0.12 You can set your browser to block or alert you about these cookies, but some parts of the site will not then work. no: - 9) which indicates these two parameters must be used in -0.96 19.3 Poly. Y0=0.75*X12.51------------(1.3), VS. SEAM SLIPPAGE STRENGTH Seam strength and seam efficiency should be tested to determine the effect of sewing parameters on sewing performance. 112.3232 As per description the equations -1.07 How? 38.19 Fitness is directly related to the pattern design, sizing, fabric structure and seams used to contour curves of the body. Weft 0.8921 Assuming log y0 = y , log a = a , log b = b , we have y =bx3 + a 0.37 Poly. influencing seam slippage or seam slippage strength for Y0 2192.64 Failure of the seams of the garment by breaking the sewing thread or by seam slippage affects serviceability. 6 garment longevity depends on the seam parameters like various factors such as 1192.55 0.93 Publishing on IntechOpen allows authors to earn citations and find new collaborators, meaning more people see your work not only from your own field of study, but from other related fields too. Brief introduction to this section that descibes Open Access especially from an IntechOpen perspective, Want to get in touch? Numerical Expressions of Seams Different seam angles affect seam strength too. The sewing thread selected for the garment should move freely through the eye of the selected sewing needle to ensure smooth passage during sewing. Without Stitch type 504 is formed with three threads; one needle thread, one looper thread and one cover thread. Table 1.1896 X2 833.91 (GSM*thickness)(x1*x3) vs. Seam slippage strength(y0) 14.04941 get, 4.43 necessary for dry cleaning. 2359.31 8A + 154.80B = 5.7200 8.00 If you do not allow these cookies, you will experience less targeted advertising. 0.633425 4807670.17 In the past, seams were described as Flat, Superimposed, Lapped or Bound. 50.6763 A seam is the join where two or more layers of fabrics XGC Y=logY0 3.37 Seam strength depends on the thread strength and stitch density. The final observation table as per there 7.19 7.00 Finish SLIPPAGE STRENGTH(Y0) 0.30 3 slippage strength and the structural parameters This seam class consists of one piece of fabric that is turned in on both edges. 1 Sewing speed has the greatest influence on the needle temperature. m2)(Y0)) STRENGTH(KG/C 5268.4431 transverse ratio of seam strength to fabric strength including the ratio of 4. Which makes seam fail even their is no any rupture or breakage. 7.11 Books > GSM, cover factor, thickness & develop an empirical The sample fabrics are sewn as per standard procedures, and the appearance of the seam is compared with standard reference specimens. 3. 8A + 11.18B = 5.7200 3 (Y0)) )(y0) Using fitting exponential curve we get the following table 7.19 4.07 By solving this above two equation Cover factor according to fitting normal curve Log y0 = log a + blogxgc 1. Stitches are used to join the apparel component and seams give the shape of the apparel for wear. A superimposed seam can be sewn with Stitch Types 301 or 401 to create a simple seam. the other sewing parameters unchanged. 5600.85 0.36 11.2535 7.80 4 0.16 Additional details are available in our cookie policy. Seams in modern mass-produced apparel, footwear, house hold textiles and sporting goods are sewn by industrial sewing machines. (GSM*cover factor) (x1*x2) vs. Seam slippage strength(y0) 274.00 0.6857 0.7757 3.870268782 280.093696 1.0632 Below is one formula that was developed for estimating the seam strength on 4.07 20.00 3062.66 In this context, stitch and seam types used in garments are explained. 7.80 0.00 Y0=9.27X32.29------------(3.3), SEAM SLIPPAGE STRENGTH CORRELATION 0.6721 3. However, the stitch and seam parameters, sewing needle penetration force, needle damage index, seam defects and damages that are effective at seam performance have been explained and their relations with each other are compared. The exponential equation is y0=axgtb gives higher seam slippage strength .It is explained by the fact that 20.96 9.00 0.955644343 Without Y0=3.67*1.0001XGC------------(4.2) 0.6096 8A + 27.02B = 5.7200 2.1747 4.28 Thickness strength(y0) During the stitching, heat is dissipated from the needle. 1.723861 13.17 2.00 Y0=3.97*1.006XGT------------(5.2), of exponential equation for (GSM*thickness) (x1*x3) vs. 0.974193386 X32 Loops of needle thread are passed through the material and interlaced and interlooped with loops of bobbin thread. 1.2752 equations according to fitting 9.00 The grade of fabric is the grade of the reference specimen which matches most nearly to sample fabric specimen [24]. Bristol BS13 8FD Seams may be sewn or constructed AP-4-13 3.00 The distance between grip jaws should be 75 3 mm (3 0.1in.). Seam efficiencies of 6080% are common, but efficiencies between 80 and 90% are more difficult obtaining from garment seams. The equivalent of 2.5mm is about 1012 stitches per inch. Seam slippage strength(y0) 16780165.25 20.96 according to fitting normal curve 0.37 Seams are finished with a variety of techniques to prevent ravelling of raw fabric edges and to neaten the inside of garments. 4.70 correlation. 0.8921 Log y0 = log a + (x3)logb 3.2112 All information these cookies collect is aggregated and therefore anonymous. 3.95 XGT2 0.11 18.23 Y0=1.54*1.003X1------------(1.2), of exponential equation for GSM(x1) vs. Seam slippage 7.19 Our plan is to develop a computer program me algorithm based 0.8921 1.00 64.60 TOTAL Metals Tensile Testing Concepts, Equations, And Theory, Tennis Ball Deformation/Compression Testing. indirect influences on seam slippage like fabric By Sena Cimilli Duru, Cevza Candan and Banu Uygun Ner By Shajahan Maidin, See Ying Chong, Ting Kung Heing, IntechOpen Limited is a commonly occurred fault that degrades the 0.6314 3.2 19.9 As per description the equations Y0 Seam efficiencies of 6080% are common but efficiencies between 80 and 90% are more difficult obtaining from garment seams. 5.97 These defects are usually attributed to either a fault with the sewing machine, improper material or a worker error. 4.28 Flexibility of the fabric is affected seam slippage too [12, 21]. 7. Seam strength refers to the force at which the stitch ends to tear or when the fabric breaks. 18.83 Procedure of Fabric Seam Slippage Test - Textile Learner 3.00 5.4 0.5191 Physical and mechanical testing of textiles - ScienceDirect 5 Out of which lapped seam is one of the strongest seam. Stitches with long stitch lengths are holding the fabric together with less tension. 240.90 4.07 35.66 64.30 13.04942 Stitch type 301 is formed with two threads, one needle thread and one bobbin thread. 2)(Y0) 4.00 The exponential equation is y0=ax3b Further work:1. 5.7200 The seam grinning is defined as that when two pieces of fabric are pulled at right angles to the seam, a gap is revealed between the two pieces of the fabric revealing the thread in the gap. Hence, it is important to be familiar with various seam types, their applications and variations available so that you can choose the right seam to suit your sewing needs. 0.6857 The looped seam is the most commonly used seam. 2. Seams used for assembling sewn products are load bearing and ideally should be similar in physical properties to the material being sewn. 8A -5.6B = 5.7200 The French seam is commonly used for rain wear, and edge stitching front facings on jackets and dresses. 1192.55 4.07 8.8 log Y0 = log a + blogX1 Y0 = 2E-17XGC5 - 4E-13XGC4 + 3E-09XGC3 - 8E-06XGC2 + 0.0106XGC - 0.8878(4.1) The exponential equation is y0=abx3 The seam grinning also increased as the fabric becomes rigid against deformation [22]. 19.8 Log Y0 = log a + (x2)logb 5.97 TOTAL where ND is the needle damage index due to fusing, severance or deflection (%), Ny is the number of yarns damaged in the direction evaluated and Pn is the number of needle penetrations. 3.4. warp slippage. Seam Quality Increasing SPI is one of the most effective solution to avoid seam slippage. 0.0671 As per description the equations The fabric samples of plain weave were found to have greater seam performance Seam efficiency Seam efficiency = ( Seam strength / Fabric strength ) * 100 For thus we need to also calculate fabric strength. The average stitch length is 2.5mm. 11.16206 square method are 2.502492761 8 SEAM Stitch type 600 has 10 different subgroups [7]. Taking logarithm of both the sides with base 10 1.33 7.80 Suitable stitch and seam types should be selected when sewing a garment. seam slippage strength is most prominent one compare to cover factor, Seam slippage, seam grinning and seam pucker is important seam defects, which influences the appearance of the garment. 2005; Gurada, 2008) have suggested measuring seam slippage according to the 3 Zigzag lock stitch, chain stitch or covering stitch (class 600). Eq. IMPOSED y0) (r130) 1.32 While making seam sometimes operator takes more or less seam allowance which is manual error. 19.5 Finish AP-1-13 4173.16 8.3666 Longer stitch lengths create needle flex and increase tension changes. 2 92.75 4.85 Seam elongation Their is one scale on machine near the clamp which can be use to measure elongation. Y*X1 13.2364 Appearance and performance of the seams are dependent upon the stitch and seam types, stitch and seam parameters like stitch density, stitch width, seam allowance, stitch length, seam thickness, seam extensibility, seam strength, seam efficiency, sewing needle penetration force, sewing needle-related damage due to sewing and seam defects and damages. 0.6314 Before conducting ASTM D1683, it is important to read the entire specification in the relevant ASTM publication. 77.25 7.3671 4.07 Home shoe making, dressmaking, quilting, crafts, haute couture and tailoring may use a combination of hand and machine sewing. Some of the seams on a garment are not subjected to high levels of stress or extension in use, like the shoulder seams on a jacket. Finish Experimental analysis on the effect of fabric structures and seam 5.97 4.Project plan 104.60 Do not consider the readings of seam break instead of seam opening. 5 thread. 0.8567 Sl. 540.54837 The middle range of the stitch length for a zig-zag stitch is 2.5mm and stitch width is 3 or 4mm. Seam Slippage and Seam Strength Testing -Textile lab - YouTube 5.6A - 4.43B = 3.8206 With 2019 The Author(s). Seam slippage strength - It is the amount of force required to pull out a total of " of the opposing sets of yarns perpendicular to the seam line. 0.5966 7.19, Vs. Seam slippage strength y0) (r30) 5 that the thicker fabric shows higher seam slippage strength mostly fabric, rpm of the machine, GSM of the fabric , In the 6 240.90 SL. 0.5527 Stitch type 101 is formed with one needle thread which passes through the material and interlooped with itself on the undersurface of the material. UNITED KINGDOM, Innovation in the Comfort of Intimate Apparel, Simulations of Yarn Unwinding from Packages. By solving this above two Seam type BSa-1 is formed by folding a binding strip over the edge of the ply or plies of body material and seaming the binding strip and body material with one or more rows of stitches. 7.80 SEAM STRENGTH(Kg/ This method covers the determination of the resistance to slippage of weft yarns over warp yarns, or warp yarns over weft yarns, using a standard seam. STRENGTH(Kg/cm Figures of six stitch types are shown in Figure 1. 0.191588 X2 Y*XGT 0.8567 0.6721 Finish As PhD students, we found it difficult to access the research we needed, so we decided to create a new Open Access publisher that levels the playing field for scientists across the world. FABRIC In this feed mechanism their are bottom feed and variable top feed working together to get the best stitching for slippery fabric. 0.6096 4.70 5 Princes Gate Court, slippage strength(y0) Class 5 Decorative/Ornamental stitching. equation we get by least square method are ess (x) 4.85 5.00 14.6033 3:- Characterization of Seam Strength and Seam Slippage on Cotton fabric with coefficient 7 Apply tensile force until specimen rupture. 1422175.503 0.8567 are held together with stiches 4.70 lubricant. quality & reduce commercial value of the garment.so it is essential COEFFICIENT 3.95 X2 332.17438 For any queries please get in touch at - akashsdeshmukh96@gmail.com, Marketing Department In Textile And Fashion Industry-With Marketing Mix & 7Ps, What is Seam Slippage (Seam Slippage Test). 0.09 1.624959 3.2610 2.1818 0.7757 2 Stitches are used to join the patterns of the garment, and seams give the shape and detail of the garment. 4.85 It has more strength as compared to other seam types. 4.85 7.00 12.97 0.7757 cover factor of the fabric etc. 0.6314 4.70 Log Y0 = log a + (xgt)logb Seam Slippage and Seam Strength Testing -Textile lab (Garments Quality)Seam Slippage and Seam Strength Testing,Seam Slippage Testing,Seam Strength Testing,Garments Quality,Textile Lab,Fabric Testing,fabric testing and quality control,textile lab,lab equipment,spray tester,physical lab,chemical lab,textile manufacturing process,fabric manufacturing process,knit fabric process,knit fabric dyeing process,woven fabric dyeing,fabric inspection, 0.8921 726.9718 that have filament yarns, low counts and Company number: 103548. X=logX3 It is most commonly seen in belt loops or bets for which a folder can be attached to the machine. established as an international standard and most apparel industries follow this we get, 3.95 How Can I Ensure My Products Meet ASTM Standards? 27.02A + 91.98B = 19.5542 Puckering is usually caused by one or more of the following conditions: yarn displacement (structural compression of fabric yarns). Seam slippage, which affects the sewn seam, can also be measured by subtracting the elongation of the fabric from that of the fabric with a seam in it. 497.5083 0.918928 2.6 This type of seam requires only one component. 27.02 GSM 1.238566 6 97826420.80 The stitches are visible from outside when seam slippage occurs. Increasing the stitch density helps to increase stitch extensibility. It was observed that seam grinning on the sewn fabric increased with decreased stitch density and increased thread extensibility. 18.83 1.9 upon the most suitable empirical relationship for prediction of seam Enter your email address: Note: Your subscription will be activated once you respond to the verification message received in your email inbox. Finish 0.6096 Fitting is a crucial factor of wearing comfort [2, 3]. Seam performance of a garment also depends on structural and mechanical properties of the fabric and strength, extensibility, security, durability, appearance and efficiency of the seams. 0.6314 strength(kg/cm2 Taking logarithm of both the sides with base 10 According to (Behera et al., 1997a; Behera & Sharma, 1998; Tarafdar et al., 100.01 104.60 0.8567 0.863724562 5.97 Low seam efficiency values indicate that the sewn fabric is damaged during sewing. type and size, tension, seam type and size, thread We also disclose information about your use of our site with our social media, advertising and analytics partners. The first digit reflects the seam class (1-8). 18.23 There are different fit-types for garment items that range from the slim and form-fitting to oversized [5]. Link:- http://cameron.econ.ucdavis.edu/excel/ex01access.html

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